Peter Garrett, trailbuilder extraordinaire

One of the great things about the East Coast Greenway Week-A-Year ride is meeting passionate volunteers. Peter Garrett is one of those.

peter garrett plaqueOne of the great things about the East Coast Greenway Week-A-Year ride is meeting passionate volunteers. Peter Garrett is one of those. This soft-spoken Brit has lived in the Waterville area for nearly 40 years and has spent more than a decade building 40 miles of trails in Waterville, Winslow and surrounding towns for the astoundingly low cost of about $2.5 million (this article says $4 million, which is still cheap).

Peter has learned to be both patient and persistent. As he took a group of us along the Rotary Centennial Trail and the connecting East Kennebec Trail, he told us how his group, Kennebec Messalonskee Trails, asked the railroad if it could buy some land along the river that was no longer being used. It was told no .. and several years later, the railroad donated the land. Now I’m sure he left out a few details of how this gift came to be, but it is now a flat, grass-covered trail mowed by a volunteer we were introduced to.

If I’m remembering right, not only was the land donated but the company put up a fence at its own cost (rather than requiring the trails group to pay for it) to separate the trail and company land.

The surface on other parts of the trail was hard-packed soil or crushed stone, all at least as smooth (and sometimes more so) than the D&R Canal towpath near me that is a long section of the East Coast Greenway. Certainly none of that reddish-brown dust that caked my bike a month ago! And it was lovely to be in the shade (something we appreciated even more as we biked down U.S. 201 with none) and get a break from hills.

Peter is second from left
Peter is second from left

It got me thinking about what makes a good trail, and what makes a good trail segment for the East Coast Greenway. I don’t claim to be an expert, and I certainly don’t have the educational credentials. But that’s not going to stop me from offering my thoughts.

I thought: who is this for? As a cyclist, I think of the East Coast Greenway one way, but it’s also for runners, walkers and more. And even among cyclists, road warriors would look at it one way (they stick to the roads), touring cyclists another and recreational cyclists yet another. Do I personally prefer paved? Yes, because my road bike likes that better, though I then curse the bumps created by tree roots. Still, I took it on unpaved trails in Connecticut. I just can’t go as fast (and probably shouldn’t even on paved trails, the better to share with walkers and their dogs). But my hybrid can take anything. And give me these surfaces over the C&O Canal! I liked these trails.

If I was hiking a section of the East Coast Greenway, I would love this. There were scenic vistas and even a place to sit and eat. If I was running, ditto. And we saw a woman running alone, a sign that safety isn’t a concern. Is it wheelchair-accessible? Certainly the area where we exited isn’t — too steep, perhaps, and I would definitely pave it to avoid deep ruts from the rain flowing downhill. (We walked up — but that was no more than 10 yards.)

Can't miss this! This is where we exited.
Can’t miss this! This is where we exited.

You can see only a tiny bit of the fence on the left. It’s an automated gate put in by the business next door (the railroad? remnants of the paper mill?) to keep trail users from parking on its property. Peter tells the story better, but it seems like more proof of how this community group works well with others.

I like that the trails connected to the schools. Does it mean it meanders a bit for a through-rider? Yes. But the added distance really isn’t much, and you could have jumped back onto the road for what I expect is less than half a mile if you wanted to skip that.

Peter’s trail is an “orphan” trail and not part of the main route. But given that tourism and the economic boost it provides are among the selling points for this national trail (and, of course, encouraging exercise as part of a healthy lifestyle), it seems to me that if it doesn’t become part of the main route, it should be listed as a loop or spur. The same goes for Donna’s Air Line South trail and the Lawrence Hopewell Trail near me. After all, the more there is to bike in one area, the more likely you are to linger or plan a weekend around it.

Peter’s group has great ambitions to connect to the Waterville side of the river using old bridge pilings. It’s a long way across, but given what this group has already accomplished, my money is on this one day happening.

ecg maine peter bridge to come

The route that exists today led us to the Two-Cent Bridge, an unusual pedestrian suspension bridge that is more than 100 years old — and which Peter and co. got fixed up and re-opened. The name comes from the two-cent toll to cross the bridge.

ecg maine two cent bridge

Look at the fun sculpture (wearing my bike helmet) and bike rack on the Waterville side!

ecg waterville sculpture

ecg waterville bridge bike rack

Not only did Peter show us his trails, but he played tour guide from Unity to his trails, entertaining us with little stories along the way.

If you like reading about passionate advocates, I’ve written about others here and here.

Day 6 — 50 miles from Augusta to Auburn

We rode on two trails today — the Kennebec River Trail and the Riverside Greenway in Lewiston.

ecg sign augusta maine

Today started and finished on wonderful trails. In between were mostly quiet roads, that evil 15% grade on part of a two-mile climb and a press event with the Maine Department of Transportation. Oh, and a lobster roll at a hole-in-the-wall. Properly toasted, unlike the one at the non-descript deli on Day 0 in Portland.

It was hot again, but we seemed to have more shade and the day didn’t end with a brutal climb. All told, we “officially” climbed 1,816 feet (but descended more — yay!). We pretty much behaved ourselves — no crazy detours today. And once again thanks to another wonderful SAG who kept us well-supplied with water.

The Kennebec River Trail in Augusta was lovely, with the river on our left and taking us blissfully traffic-free (and hill-free!) about 6 1/2 miles to Gardiner. It’s somewhat unusual in that it’s a rail with trail, rather than a trail on a former rail line. Notice there’s no fence between the rail and the trail.

ecg kennebec river trail with rail

This photo of two Kennebec Trail users comes from a fellow rider. The mother is 90 years old. Her daughter can’t walk. Just two reasons why we need more trail!

ecg kennebec river trail users

Before we took off on the trail, we met with Maine DOT to thank them for their support of the East Coast Greenway and for the wayfinding signage we’ve used for much of our trip. (Once again, the route essentially overlaps with U.S. Bicycle Route 1.) Watch the local TV’s station report here and read the short AP story that somehow is illustrated with a photo from my blog.

Here’s an impressive theater in Monmouth — too big to fit into my photo! With an impressive list of productions for the summer season. And the town has just 4,100 people.

ecg monmouth theater

At the end of our ride was the Riverside Greenway in Lewiston, with the Androscoggin River on our right, before we crossed over to Auburn and our hotel:

ecg riverside trail lewiston

Food picture of the day is my $8 lobster roll, with nice chunks of lobster:

lobster roll in monmouth

What else I’ve learned about food in Maine: For ice cream, Gifford’s trumps Hershey’s. Much better range of flavors. And not much cookie dough in the Hershey’s ice cream version.

One more day to go — hard to believe this bike adventure is almost over.

 

More of the Maine food tour: Lobster pizza

The Maine food tour on a bike continues.

ecg maine lobster pizzaOf course this exists in Maine!

I found it at our hotel in Augusta — chunks of lobster, squares of roasted seaweed (nori), spicy chili aoli, topped with scallions and toasted sesame seeds. And of course oozing with cheese — asiago and mozzarella. I’d cut down on the cheese and let the lobster shine through.

Bonus: half-price pizzas during happy hour. And then they let me bring it to the restaurant.

Can I confess that I’d be back for the weekday lunch pizza buffet? I’d try the crabmeat pizza, the pear, walnut and gorgonzola one…

Day 5 — 50 miles from Unity to Augusta, with detours

This hot day made for a tough day of biking.

It once cost two cents to walk across this bridge.
It once cost two cents to walk across this bridge.

I thought Maine weather was supposed to be on the cool side, and I packed accordingly.

Wrong move.

Today was particularly hot — I think it topped 90 — and that made it a tougher day, especially on the back half of the ride, all along U.S. 201 with barely a lick of shade.

Once again, the East Coast Greenway route overlapped with U.S. Bicycle Route 1. Climbing-wise, the “official” cue-sheet estimate was 2,032 feet, which seemed OK. But there was a really nasty hill in Augusta, after the heat had worn us down, and we had already detoured to the Viles Arboretum, which involved another big hill.

The day’s big highlight was being guided by Peter Garrett during the first half of the day, until we got to Waterville. Peter has led an amazing effort to build trails in the area — 40 miles and counting, for astounding low cost of about $2.5 million. He’ll be the subject of a separate post.

We stopped at the headquarters of Johnny’s Seeds, a fun spot for any gardener. Wouldn’t I like this sort of protective set-up in our garden!

johnnys seeds

Experiencing college all over again

We’re back in the dorms.

Usually we spend the night in hotels. But tonight we’re in the dorms of Unity College, a private college of 665 students focused on sustainable (ie environmental) sciences.

It’s better than the cinderblock building I lived in during my first two years of college at Mizzou. Five of us are in a suite — three bedrooms (one is a single), one lounge (big kitchen sink, no appliances), one shower, one half-bath. More space than the youth hostel in Richmond on last year’s ride. No air conditioning. Got to keep the beer hidden.

On the other hand, we’ve got the fastest internet service in days!

Dorm food has gotten better too (yes, I’m back to food). There was grilled chicken and also a vegan option, plus pasta with a spicy tomato sauce, a few options for side dishes of veggies and a generous salad bar with mixed greens, not iceberg lettuce. And we could have seconds — possibly dangerous when you’re dealing with cyclists.

And there’s real ice cream, not just soft-serve:

ecg unity dorm ice cream

Too bad the chocolate syrup container was empty. I tried not to be crushed:

ecg unity chocolate syrup

Admittedly, some of the good stuff was off-limits to us:

ecg unity dessert

But it’s disappointing to read a printed poster from a college where “it’s” is spelled “its”.

And — really, college kids? Clearly I am a different generation:

ecg unity disney

By the way, to get another perspective on this ride, check out this blog.

Finally saw a moose, and more sights of central Maine

The sights of central Maine.

Sorry, just a statue…

ecg moose unity

We’ve also seen a 31-foot Paul Bunyan (Bangor claims to be the birthplace of this lumberjack, though a town in Minnesota says not so):

ecg paul bunyan

baseball (the poor team from Puerto Rico ended up losing by the 10-run rule):

ecg bangor baseball

and a private plane stored just off a grassy runway:

ecg airplane in a field maine

Why wouldn’t Alan the Mechanic haul some of this back to Portland for me? Think of what it would do for the garden:

ecg manure

Lawn furniture?

ecg lawn furniture heading to unity

Who knew?

ecg unity

Because kale just doesn’t grow on the sidewalks of Brooklyn! (OK, that’s distorting a line from a former colleague, quoting her mom)

ecg kale in unity

 

 

Day 4 — 41 miles from Bangor to Unity

Another food day on the East Coast Greenway, plus a lake.

ecg dysarts breakfastAnd that includes one detour for ice cream and a second detour for a dip in a lake.

Today was an easy day — officially just 38 miles on the East Coast Greenway and only 1,857 feet of climbing. So it was all about the food. I know — I kind of said that yesterday too. Sorry. And then we cyclists wonder why we come home heavier than when we left.

The hotel’s breakfast was skimpy, so we stopped at a Maine institution about 5 miles along the route for proper fuel. Dysart’s is a truck stop with a diner attached. There was this, for example:

ecg barb with gooey cinnamon roll

(don’t freak out — it was shared among 10 of us)

.. and this:

ecg helen and dysarts pancake

So our blueberry cobbler was really quite modest by comparison:ecg dysarts blueberry cobblerI can’t say the same about our $3.75 ice creams:

ecg chris and ice cream

But hey, that was lunch! (The chocolate loves chocolate flavor is really good, by the way).

ecg ice cream trio

Others in the group are so jealous that they’ve gone — by car! — to get some just before dinner (don’t tell their moms!).

Oh … the lake? They were jealous of that too. Hey, bike tours are as much about the stops as about the destination.

It was soooo shallow that I got this far from shore before the water first reached my knees:

ecg unity pond shallow

And the water was so warm, it felt like a bathtub.

Saw some fish too:

ecg fish in unity pond

And a parting shot:

ecg unity pond

Day 3 — 43 miles from Ellsworth to Bangor

Tough hills, filthy fries.

Bucksport
Bucksport bay

This was a short day, but the hills were the toughest we’ve had so far.

It started with a long, steep climb out of Ellsworth and barely let up as we followed U.S. 1 to Bucksport… where we again faced a climb out of town. It got to the point where I inwardly groaned when I saw a descent coming up because I feared the ascent. Some of these hills were Anchor-House-worthy! You know what I mean, Ken Carlson!

(Yes, some descents were pretty awesome. I hit 39 mph on one hold-on-tight drop.)

Of course, all that climbing — the “official” estimate is 2,571 feet — means you can eat whatever you want, right?

So while others drank their coffee in Bucksport, I (kind of patiently) waited for the ice cream shop to open at 11 a.m. 45 minutes!! (I know! But it was a short day, and I figured this town needed my $2.50 more than Bangor, given that a paper mill and 800 jobs had disappeared about a year ago.)

I peered in the windows countless times. I even spotted someone in there a couple of times. I swear she saw me too! But did she open up early? Nope. By the time she did, just about every rider had taken off. But I finally got my Maine blueberry ice cream.

I'm happy!
I’m happy!

Bucksport was the halfway point, and as we approached Bangor, Molly, the East Coast Greenway staffer responsible for Maine, said she wanted to check out a new riverfront trail in Brewer, across the river. The mileage was the same, plus there was a brewpub on the trail. Did we want to come along?

Of course!

Molly, Clive and the IPAs at Mason's Brewing Co.
Molly, Clive and the IPAs at Mason’s Brewing Co.

The food? Do you want your fries just dirty? Or filthy? We of course had to try filthy (think a Maine take on Canada’s poutine, down to cheese curds). Delicious!

filthy fries

Someone else went healthy…

mollys salad

Where’s the fun in that?

A Maine food tour by bike: Blueberry and lobster … pies

I bet someone has found a way to combine the two, but for me, it was blueberry pie for breakfast and lobster pie for dinner.

Not together!

Though I bet someone in Maine has come up with a way to combine them.

Pie is an important part of bike riding, as you can see here and here.

I finally did get my own slice at Helen’s Restaurant in Machias — that was called breakfast. Like the one I had drooled over on Sunday afternoon, it was a thick helping of blueberries that spilled onto the plate. None of that gumminess in cheap grocery-store pies.

On the other hand, that slice cost a touch more than Clive’s proper breakfast of corned beef hash and two eggs. Worth it!

my blueberry pieThe day ended with lobster in Ellsworth. Instead of lobster roll, I went for lobster pie. So rich! Lots of lobster chunks drenched in a cream sauce, with a layer of fine bread crumbs as the “crust”. It plus the sides left no room for dessert. Not that the ice cream shop stayed open until 9 p.m.!

lobster pie

Some of the others went for a full lobster, and Chris, who calls himself a newcomer to Maine since he’s only been living here at least part-time since 1976, gave the tutorial in how to twist and crack it open.

lobster lesson cropped

A happy rider:

don eating lobster

And if you didn’t want that, there was lobster stew, lobster dip…

The Union River Lobster Pot is one of those seasonal restaurants that fills up early. So we had a bit of a wait. But here, the “bar” is chairs on the lawn, with a view of the river. And yes, you can get beer.

ellsworth river view

A second look at Maine’s Down East Sunrise Trail

I’m reassessing my view of the Down East Sunrise Trail.

Perhaps I was a little harsh yesterday.

The group that rode the Down East Sunrise Trail on Day 1 loved it. They took their time, seemingly stopping on every bridge to take photos. And the surface, while not consistent, isn’t as rough once you get more than a few feet away from a road crossing, they said.

While the trail is the longest trail segment on the East Coast Greenway, the big users are ATVs and, in the winter, snowmobiles, not cyclists. While the machines kick up some rocks, they also pack down the surface.

So we took a walk along the trail in Machias. It still felt too sandy for our skinny, slick tires, but it certainly looked better than what we saw on Sunday:

dest machias

Taking the trail today cut off about 8 miles and all those hills. There’s barely a grade on on this trail Still, the surface seems to have beaten up our riders. Those who made it the whole way arrived much later than all of us who took the road.

Here’s a sign by the crossing in Machias that I liked. Can’t ignore the economic impact of trail tourism!

dest services sign