Category: bike ride

A glimpse of Durham

We made it to Durham, North Carolina.

lucky strikeCool — our hotel is right next to the Durham Bulls baseball stadium. Just too bad there’s no game.

We found another bull, though:

rob and bull

This was the time for usual last-night group dinner. With one day left in the fifth Week-a-Year ride, those that have done them all are more than halfway to Key West (that’s the 2019 goal). We also heard how the development of the American Tobacco Trail, which we will ride on Friday, was instrumental in revitalizing Durham. Tobacco is gone, but the old buildings have been converted into multi-use spaces. DPAC, the big performing arts center, is next to our hotel. And our hotel has eight u-shaped bike racks out front!

A short walk way was our barbecue place for the evening and another hopping restaurant across the street.

And we’re still a few miles from Duke, so I feel we’ve barely scratched the surface of this city. I’m curious to see more.

Day 5 – Welcome to North Carolina

We got an unusually warm welcome to North Carolina.

welcome to nc

Today we finally reached another state!

Once again, we had a lot of quiet country roads, at least for the first half of the 61-mile day. But unlike Virginia, the route was well-signposted with East Coast Greenway markers. So nice not to be wed to our cue sheets! (Why almost no signs in Virginia? The explanation is after all the photos.)

We also had a special North Carolina welcome from Mary, who actually lives in Virginia and was part of our Tobacco Heritage Trail welcome back in Lawrenceville two days ago. Just after crossing the state line, this man was waving us over to the left. I was thinking: “doesn’t the route go straight?” But a bunch of us followed his directions anyway, into a park, and there was Mary. She’d set up a table with Gatorade, granola bars and even a vase of flowers. Behind it was a lake and her favorite view.

What a wonderful thing to do for us! And love that Virginia-North Carolina bike flag!

mary's welcomeThe area in front of the orange rope/marker is the swimming area .. only thanks to Joaquin, there is no beach. The depth markers show the lake is 11 feet deep at the orange marker. Before the storm, it was just two feet deep, she told us.

mary

As nice as those quiet country roads are, we got a look at what the future of the East Coast Greenway. The vision is to convert this abandoned railway line from Clarksville, Va., to Oxford, NC, (our halfway point) into a rail trail.

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Back to those East Coast Greenway signs. Why are there none in Virginia outside of Richmond? The explanation I got is that that Virginia DOT requires outfits to use a particular sign company and to have an expensive maintenance contract with that firm. The only way around is to be a VDOT program. And being recognized by the Department of Natural Resources as one of the state’s half-dozen long-distance trails doesn’t cut it.

So Adventure Cycling, whose U.S. Bicycle Route System is being developed with the American Association of State Highway and Transportation Officials, gets its U.S. Bike Route 1 and 76 signs, and the East Coast Greenway (which prefers trails) still has to jump through some more hoops to be signposted on quiet roads.

Paah (that’s pie with a southern twist)

Well-earned dessert.

Yum! Wednesday night .. I’m one of those who couldn’t resist:

pie

 

Building more of the East Coast Greenway

Another section of the Tobacco Heritage Trail is under construction.

Tobacco Heritage TrailWe rode another stretch of the Tobacco Heritage Trail on Wednesday, this time on the edge of Boydton, the county seat of Mecklenburg County — and population 431 in the 2010 census. Yes, we are biking through small towns, towns that certainly could use an economic boost that cyclists using the East Coast Greenway could provide.

We saw some trail under construction east of where we picked up this stretch of the Tobacco Heritage Trail, and it will eventually be another part of the East Coast Greenway. It’s always cool to see the East Coast Greenway become more off-road on these rides. But Tobacco Heritage Trail organizers, why wait to get some basic information onto the kiosk?

Empty kiosk American Tobacco Trail

The stretch of trail we rode Wednesday was just one mile long. Once we rode into Boydton, we essentially doubled back halfway on the road to our lunch spot. Hope the Copper Kettle puts up some yard signs by the trail to attract some riders. After Boydton (we saw one restaurant near the main square), it’s empty back roads (and no food) until Clarksville.

How empty?

This is from when gas sold for 65.9 cents a gallon:

old gas pump

 

 

Virginia’s tobacco history

A look at the South Hill’s Tobacco Farm Life Museum of Virginia

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With Wednesday just a short day, many of us opted for a late start so we could visit the local museums in South Hill. After all, tourism is part of bike touring.

I passed on the doll museum (a local woman’s large collection) and the train museum (the layout of the local club plus part of another collection — I was told it was impressive) and just went to the tobacco museum for a bit of education.

oct 8 2015 phone 004Tobacco is still part of the area economy, but with the help of machines, three people can plant an acre in an hour or two, not the full day it took a century ago. Back then, you used a wooden peg to make the hole for the plant (not too different, really, than I sometimes do in my garden), then use this metal contraption that would drop a seedling into the hole and add water.

planting tobaccoLeonard, who runs the museum, gave me a peek into the sheds where they once dried tobacco leaves, a process that took days and a fire that kept the space around 120 degrees. My bet is that today, those men would be barbecue pit masters.

drying and curing tobaccoIt sounds like a hard life.

selling tobacco

Some more pictures from the museum:

paying for shoes

tobacco museum equipment

Day 4 – Short on miles, long on hills from South Hill to Clarksville, Va.

40 miles sounds really easy … except there were plenty of hills, and some were long and steep.

Today was our short day, though we made it a bit longer than the 34 envisioned. Still, 40 miles sounded really easy … except there were plenty of hills, and some were long and steep. On the other hand, we rode some back roads that seem to get so little car traffic, they might as well be trails.

We ended in Clarksville, Virginia’s big lakeside resort town, just north of the North Carolina border.

Here’s some homeowner’s idea of a sculpture garden:

yard sculpture

Wonder what prompted the collection of old toilets. This is just a few of them:

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And here’s where we finished:

welcome to clarksville

Long group dinner and tomorrow is 60 miles to Durham. Time for sleep. More details later.

Tobacco Heritage Trail

Here’s my assessment of the Tobacco Heritage Trail.

tobacco heritage trail

Finally got some trail riding today — we were on the Tobacco Heritage Trail from Lawrenceville west to the end, which seems to roughly be the Lacrosse/South Hill line. Yes, it’s part of the East Coast Greenway.

Here’s my assessment:

Much of the trail we rode is crushed stone and at times became very soft and sandy. I definitely felt it in the legs, and our pace was much, much slower. We were all thrilled when it turned to asphalt. (The trail pamphlet shows a long on-road stretch from Lacrosse west to Chase City.)

The trail amenities we saw are impressive. The bathrooms are these stand-alone structures large enough to accommodate someone in a wheelchair (not that a person in a wheel chair is going to be happy pushing through the soft surface, but maybe it was particularly soft because of the recent storm). Solar panel on the chimney, a motion sensor when you walk in the door that turns on the light. Not some smelly portapotty.

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And I bet the horses love the soft surface. The trail caters to horse riders with these little steps to make it easy to mount your horse, and these places to tie up your horse. Not that we saw any today. Of course you could use this to mount your bike instead:

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oct 6 2015 020

Of course there are picnic tables and historical markers along the trail.

There are few access points on the crushed-stone portion of the trail, unlike, say, the Delaware & Lehigh Trail south of Jim Thorpe. That makes it harder to use it for a short distance.

The Tobacco Heritage Trail hasn’t yet hit that tipping-point length when it becomes a tourist destination. The goal is to reach 150 miles of rail-trail, plus connecting corridors, as funding becomes available. It should be a draw well before then, giving the area some badly needed economic stimulus.

And food? We gave this place behind the trail in Lawrenceville a thumbs up:

lawrenceville restaurant

 

Day 3 – Quiet roads in rural Virginia from Petersburg to South Hill, Va.

72 sunny miles in rural Virginia

quiet roads2

A long but fabulous day: 72 miles on mostly quiet roads or trails. And sunny. What a contrast to Monday!

We cut Robert E. Lee’s last supply line as we headed south of Petersburg, leaving those chasing Lee and Grant’s ghosts to fade toward Appomattox while we headed southwest to South Hill.

This is rural southern Virginia, where towns have been left behind as the tobacco industry survives on life support and the interstate (I-85 in this case) saps their commercial life. Truly a case where a developed East Coast Greenway could bring some badly needed cash into these communities. We rode some of the time on U.S. 1. Where I live, it’s three scary lanes of traffic in each direction, and you’d be insane to bike on it. Here, traffic is insanely light.

Continue reading “Day 3 – Quiet roads in rural Virginia from Petersburg to South Hill, Va.”

Day 2 – On to Petersburg from Richmond on the East Coast Greenway

Our ragtag group of Northerners and Southerners moved out of Richmond and onto Petersburg.

That's George Washington??
That’s George Washington??

This ragtag group of Northerners and Southerners made a slow advance out of Richmond, first doing a reconnaissance to the rear of our lines to inspect the statues for the Heroes of the Confederacy (clearly Robert E. Lee was the hero, and Jefferson Davis’s statue was pretty puny) and the one for hometown star Arthur Ashe, also on Monument Avenue but set apart from all those who fought for slavery.

Continue reading “Day 2 – On to Petersburg from Richmond on the East Coast Greenway”