The East Coast Greenway from Philadelphia to John Heinz National Wildlife Refuge

Nine years ago, I biked from suburban Conshohocken through Philadelphia to Wilmington, Delaware along the East Coast Greenway route.

It was time to see how part of the East Coast Greenway route had changed since then.

First, there’s still plenty of urban grit. This is Philadelphia, the poorest of America’s 10 largest cities, and the route goes through some industrial areas and some neighborhood that could use a lift. Before you go, know how to cross trolley tracks safely (as close to a right angle as possible). Oh, all that glass on the streets; I’m amazed no one got a flat tire.

But there’s more stress-free riding than before, including on trails and multi-use paths. We got a taste of Bartram’s Garden and enjoyed the lovely shade and emptiness of the Cobbs Creek Trail, which has expanded since the last time I was on it.

Better yet there’s more coming in the next couple of years. There’s already a new section along the Schuylkill River, unfortunately disjointed from the impressive Schuylkill River Trail — but we could see off in the distance that concrete was already being poured for the Christian-to-Crescent section that will include a bridge out over the water and may open in mid-2025. This will close the gap to the section we detoured onto … and in 2024, the much-delayed Schuylkill Crossing (also known as the swing bridge) to get walkers, runners and cyclists across the Schuylkill (at the other end of the disjointed trail) is supposed to finally be finished. Assuming, of course, that the new truss that’s needed gets built and delivered on time.

Then I think you’ll be able to bike all the way into Bartram’s Garden from Center City (or really pretty much from Reading — read about my 2022 bike ride from Philly to Reading and back here.)

Of course, we weren’t just trying to get to Bartram’s Garden. Our goal was the national wildlife refuge in the shadow of both I-95 and Philadelphia International Airport.

So after taking some time to go to the end of the trail in Bartram’s Garden, tempting us the promise of more to come, stopping at the overlook for a look at the Philadelphia skyline on the other side of an industrial wasteland, and then heading past the home of Philadelphia cowboys (yes, cowboys), we were back on city streets for maybe 1 1/2 miles until the Cobbs Creek Trail.

It was lovely to be on an asphalt path weaving through the woods, with glimpses of the creek. Plus we took the newest half-mile section, opened in 2020, which includes a protected path under the CSX bridge. A big safety improvement!

Once the trail ran out, it was back on the road for a few busier blocks until we could turn into a neighborhood for another mile or so before a final burst along Lindbergh Boulevard and its sidepath to the entrance of John Heinz National Wildlife Refuge at Tinicum — America’s first urban refuge. And yes, you hear the traffic and can see trucks on I-95.

The trails there aren’t paved, but my road bike did fine with its 28mm tires.

Now my sister tells me there’s a more direct way than the East Coast Greenway’s route, so we took it on the way back. Sure, Buist Avenue is a good choice. But then it’s Lindbergh and Grays Ferry Avenue, with drivers of cars and trucks deciding that parts of the bike lane are really parking spots. The Grays Ferry Avenue bridge has a lovely sidepath for us … but the intersection with trucks turning right onto I-76 is not something I’d recommend to most people. Another reason why the extension of the Schuylkill Banks will be another game-changer for biking in Philadelphia.