Discovering New Haven

The East Coast Greenway took us to New Haven pizza.

ecg connecticut signOn our second day in Connecticut, we biked more of the Farmington Canal Heritage Trail, heading from Cornwall Avenue and Willow Street in Cheshire 16 miles south to New Haven and then back. It’s all part of the East Coast Greenway.

Here’s some of what struck me:

The parking lot we used was full before 10 a.m., and the overflow lot (really a local business’s lot) was pretty full too. (And when we came back late in the afternoon, the main lot was still pretty full, just with different cars)

farmington parking lot

The trail was heavily used by young and old, thin and fat, people on bikes and people on foot. The entire stretch was paved and while not as wide as the widest sections of the Farmington River Trail, still plenty wide. We did see a dirt section on the side for those who wanted to skip asphalt.

farmington people on trail

Because it was hot and sunny, the heavy shade along much of the trail was greatly appreciated. The downside of biking through the woods is that you don’t see as many businesses, so the economic impact isn’t quite as obvious as in Collinsville, for example.

And Connecticut drivers are generally polite. Although we had stop signs at intersections, so many of them stopped for us.

Once in New Haven, we rode to the coast, past the Puerto Rican food trucks parked along a fairly busy road and through a small nature preserve before deciding to head back to the New Haven Green. Of course we found some East Coast Greenway signs — thank you, Rob Dexter. (We also found Rob in between two bike rides he was doing that day, so I got to see another person from the Week-a-Year rides.)

ecg ct coast

At this stage, you’re probably thinking “You’re in New Haven. What about the pizza? How could you of all people pass up trying New Haven pizza?”

Of course I didn’t. One of our first stops in New Haven was Frank Pepe’s, one of the oldest New Haven Neopolitan-style pizzerias. It has a super-thin crust and comes on a sheet pan lined with wax paper. Personally, I thought it was pretty similar to a Trenton tomato pie (I guess the difference is sauce first, then cheese, instead of cheese, then sauce like in Trenton). Fwiw, the typical New York pizza has a slightly thicker, chewier crust.

new haven pizza

Here’s something we found that we haven’t seen elsewhere. Clive said it really did have a birch taste:

new haven odd drink

Connecticut’s gold-star trails

We spent three days riding our bikes on Connecticut trails. Day 1 was the Farmington River Trail and part of the Farmington Canal Heritage Trail.

farmington canal signI’ve been hearing a lot about the Connecticut section of the East Coast Greenway over the past two years and knew I wanted to see these trails. But after I was put in charge of the ride-on-your-own section of a “Discover the East Coast Greenway” event in NYC a group of us organized in April, I knew I had to go.

So we took a three-day weekend and toured the trails with the help of some ECG buddies.

WOW!

We just loved them. (One of my nieces might call them “epic”.) Judging by how busy they were, so do lots of other people. And then to see gaps being closed along the Farmington Canal Heritage Trail (which runs from New Haven into Massachusetts) — well, this is why I ride in support of the East Coast Greenway.

Continue reading “Connecticut’s gold-star trails”

3 National Parks sites on a bike

A bike ride with a bit of history thrown in — a great combination. Happy 100th birthday, National Parks Service!

nps ridersSaturday I helped out with the East Coast Greenway’s ride in New York City to mark the centennial of the National Parks Service. We hit three sites over about 26 miles. Bet you never heard of one of them!

We started out at Castle Clinton, at the southern tip of Manhattan, where we dodged tourists getting their tickets to visit Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty. Castle Clinton was conceived as part of a series of forts built before the War of 1812 to keep the British from taking New York, as they did in the Revolution. It worked.

But the fort didn’t last long as a fort — it then became a party place (once trashed by Andrew Jackson and friends), a rather casual immigration station (before Ellis Island) and finally an aquarium. Thank you, Ranger Derrick Hand, for the quick history lesson!

Then we headed up the wonderful Hudson River Greenway to Grant’s Tomb. No ranger talk there, unfortunately. But I learned that Grant is the president who preserved Yellowstone — and yet we think of Theodore Roosevelt as the man behind the national parks.

I spotted a series of mosaic benches just outside, made, apparently, in the 1970s:

grants tomb mosaic

Is that Grant, Lincoln and Teddy Roosevelt on the right? The second from the left looks like Shakespeare, doesn’t it? But that makes no sense…

We crossed the High Bridge into the Bronx and new territory for me. Several greenways took us across the borough, and we had some glimpses of the Long Island Sound before we reached Westchester County. Finally some proper East Coast Greenway signs!

ecg westchester

Pelham Manor has some gorgeous mini-manors. If you saw the prices for water and a red fruit punch (fancy Kool-Aid?) from these budding entrepreneurs, you’d know we are talking money.

pelham manor drinks stand

We were only a few miles from our final stop — St. Paul’s Church in Mount Vernon. Told you you wouldn’t have heard of it!

This site isn’t open much on weekends, and Saturday was picked for the bike ride because they were marking Colonial Day. (A rather small celebration, I have to say. So the dozen-plus cyclists in our group were definitely noticeable.) The church dates back to before the Revolution. The Hessians used it as a field hospital during a minor battle ahead of the Battle of White Plains in 1776 (part of Washington’s retreat from New York, across New Jersey and into Pennsylvania before that Christmas crossing that led to the Battle of Trenton followed by the Battle of Princeton.) Alexander Hamilton came up here for a few legal matters — even once faced off against Aaron Burr, in 1786 (That’s the man who killed him in a duel). Bet they didn’t like each other then either.

And this is the grave of the doctor who was at Ford’s Theater the night Abraham Lincoln was shot and attended him until he died:

st pauls grave

It’s amazing what you see and learn on a bike — this is the kind of ride I enjoy!

The train ride home, though, was the train ride from hell. First my train is cancelled. (I later learn it’s because one woman pepper-sprayed(!) another woman in the train while still at Penn Station, and the police were called.) I’m grateful I didn’t get kicked off the next train (they could have claimed weekend rush-hour restrictions for bikes, since it was after 5 p.m.). It broke down in New Brunswick. Lots of to-ing and fro-ing before the train gets pulled away and we finally get on another one. I could have biked home had I known we’d be there for two hours! In the end, what my rush-hour express train does in 35 minutes took four hours.

Black, orange and 67 miles

My Memorial Day weekend tally: 3 bike rides, 67 miles, lots of black and orange.

Memorial Day weekend training tally: out on the bike all three days, for a total of 67 miles. Though to be honest, all of that only equals the longest day on the Maine ride. Time to pick up the pace.

The big ride was Sunday — 31 miles with hills through Princeton and Hopewell and back. Memorial Day weekend traditionally is reunion weekend for Princeton University, when alums come back wearing the most garish black and orange print their class can find (once they hit the 25-year mark) or at least their class jackets. One year we hit the P-rade, when each class marches (we stood near the gathering point for the class meeting for their 20th reunion, dressed as P-rates of the Caribbean). Saturday night we caught glimpses of a heavily black-and-orange fireworks show. And on Sunday, we biked by homes of some proud alums. Here are a couple of examples:

princetonx3

This one had two banners — the one for the Class of 1932 is obscured by the tree leaves. The brunch with some easy-listening jazz was being set up in the garden as we went by:

princetonx2

And this driver takes his Princeton connection very seriously. Can you spot the tiger’s tale?

princeton car

On Saturday, I combined my bike ride with a small errand: The garden needed some basil. Glad I could fit it into my little rear bag. It arrived home unscathed.

bike and basil

 

Join me for this family-friendly ride

June 4 is National Trails Day and given that the East Coast Greenway is all about connecting trails (and quiet roads) into one 3,000-mile route … of course I want to mark the day with a ride on a trail!

towpath and flagJune 4 is National Trails Day and given that the East Coast Greenway is all about connecting trails (and quiet roads) into one 3,000-mile route … of course I want to mark the day with a ride on a trail!

So I’m organizing this free family-friendly bike ride to promote the East Coast Greenway. We’ll ride a total of eight miles on the D&R Canal towpath in New Jersey. If you’re a hardy cyclist, it’s a great way to get friends and/or family out on a bike. And if you’re not a big cyclist, this is your chance to ride with me (and maybe 48 other people).

All you need to do is claim your spot here.

Bonus: The halfway point is Brearley House in Lawrenceville, and a representation from the Lawrence Historical Society will give us a short talk on the history of the house. Wonder if Washington slept here…

30 miles in New York City and 1 crazy squirrel

Can you name the 5 islands on this bike ride?

My training for the two Week-a-Year rides is slowly kicking into gear. Sunday I got on the train early to join the East Coast Greenway’s 5-Island bike ride. And what a ride! What a crowd! We’ve never had this many people on one of the New York one-day rides.

Here’s just some of the group at the northern tip of Roosevelt Island:

ecg 5-island ride group shot 3

Yes, Roosevelt is one of the five islands we hit. Can you guess the other four?

 

ecg 5-island ride

OK — here’s the answer; Manhattan, Randalls and Ward islands and Queens. Plus we were in the Bronx, entering via the High Bridge and passing within a block of Yankee Stadium before reaching Randalls Island via the new Randalls Island connector. I have to say the High Bridge is nicely done and sorely needed by area residents, but it’s not exactly offering one of those beautiful vistas — unless looking down on lots of railroad tracks is your thing. In other words, I still want to get to the Walkway Over the Hudson in Poughkeepsie.

For those who do the crazy full 5-Borough Bike Ride, we saw more of the Bronx than you did.

The big crowd (and red lights) slowed us down. It got chilly. It even rained a bit. Some people got impatient. Others found it hard going as the miles mounted. But Roosevelt Island was worth the wait — especially because of this, the crazy squirrel. This one had clearly learned that humans = food, and he knew how to beg. And he also did something I have never seen a squirrel do: jump onto a bike:

squirrel on bike

TWO bike rides this year!

I’m riding twice for the East Coast Greenway this year — from the Canadian border to Portland, Maine, and from Raleigh, North Carolina, to Myrtle Beach, South Carolina.

ecg maine border stoneThe East Coast Greenway’s Week-A-Year ride continues to roll down the coast — and another effort is starting from the top.

So I’ll be going from Raleigh to Myrtle Beach in October AND I’ll be going from the Canadian border to Portland, Maine from July 30 to Aug. 6. Each ride will top 300 miles — the Maine ride is closer to 350 miles.

I’m looking forward to being part of the 2016 version of this photo:

The 2011 version
The 2011 version

Since we’ll be shuttled from Portland to the border that Saturday late afternoon, you know I’ll be crossing into Canada for a stamp in my passport to mark the ride.

Better yet, I’ll be riding with three of my best friends!

The Carolinas ride is Oct. 2-8. And when that’s over, I will have ridden my bike from Philadelphia to Myrtle Beach on the East Coast Greenway. The plan remains to hit Key West in 2019.

This route is 100% mapped, but as I’ve seen on previous ride, there are many gaps between off-road trails. Some are quiet roads — almost as good as a trail! But in other spots, a trail is desperately needed, both for local residents and for long-distance riders.

Please help close the gaps by supporting my rides. The fundraising page (and pitch) is here.

As for me, I will still have gaps in my personal East Coast Greenway after 2016. My training goals this year include closing some of them. I want to ride several of the East Coast Greenway trails in Connecticut and go from Newark’s Ironbound section (Portugal!) to Metro Park’s Oak Tree Road (India!) and on to New Brunswick.  Any interest in joining me? Or on another training ride?

Who are the riders?

The people who join the East Coast Greenway’s annual ride are an amazing group.

WAY15 group photo

The people who join the East Coast Greenway’s annual ride are an amazing group.

Some are staff members, and several are on the board. But many of the others are local advocates with great stories to tell. My roommate, Donna, for example, heads a local group that is building “Air Line South”, a spur trail to the East Coast Greenway. (The northern section is part of the route). Why is it called Air Line Trail? The name comes from the old railroad line that was to connect Boston and New York by the shortest distance possible via New Haven.

Then there’s Steve Mitchell, who came with a fold-up bike that promptly had a mechanical problem that couldn’t be fixed, at least locally. So he bought a new bike in order to keep riding. It’s the 10th between himself and his wife, going back to the bike he rode cross-country in 1977. Here he is with his latest:

Steve Mitchell

By the way, Steve’s a big car dealer. You don’t have to like one or the other.

Another thing I love about this group is how low-key the riding is. No “teams” that are zipping by you in a pace line, intent on finishing early and then just sit around the hotel. No cliques.

That’s not to say I didn’t ride with a core group most days. And Bob, Ed with his Ed-rated banter and newcomers Sherri and Sue (plus their lipstick) were a great group. Looking forward to riding with all of you again next year!

Another question I got: when do we start riding? On our long days (those 70-milers), we started at 7:45 a.m. or so — once there’s plenty of daylight. Sometimes we have an event early in the day (a group photo for a newspaper, for example, or a meeting with a governor last year). We stop along the way, perhaps for lunch, perhaps for an event like the one in Lawrenceville for the Tobacco Heritage Trail. On shorter days, we were more inclined to sightsee early.

Trail angels in the Triangle

Pickles are a thing on North Carolina bike rides. Really.

More kindness in North Carolina:

The “stuff lady” — Stephanie Loyka of GoTriangle (sorry, I had mistakenly credited Triangle Bikeworks previously) — came with a bag of front, back and spoke lights. We got to pick one. I’m trying out the spoke light. Thank you!

goodies for riders

Two local rest stops. Who knew that pickles are a thing on bike rides? Apparently they (or at least the pickle juice) is good for fighting cramps. So are a couple packets of yellow mustard. (I have yet to test this last idea, but I did try a pickle.) Mount Olive, NC, east of Fayetteville, is a big pickle area, but it looks like it might be too far east of the East Coast Greenway route we’ll be biking next year (to Fayetteville, Wilmington and along the coast).

pickles

And then these homemade cookies! I admit I can’t resist a chocolate chip cookie or three, but if there’s oatmeal in them, then they are healthy, right?

Thank you to everyone who helped with these two stops.

homemade cookies at rest stop

Seems like someone else couldn’t resist either:

rob takes the leftover cookies

Day 6 – Love those trails in the Triangle

I fell in love with the American Tobacco Trail and other trails in Durham, Cary and Raleigh.

american tobacco trail2

This was our last day — and what a glorious day it was. It was sunny and warm, I had a chance to catch up with a friend over 7 or 8 miles before he had to peel off — and then those trails!

They connected from Durham through Cary to Raleigh with almost no time on roads. They were straight, they curved, they swooped, they climbed … great variety. And they were well used, not only by cyclists.

I immediately fell in love.

Oh, if only more cities thought the same way.

Continue reading “Day 6 – Love those trails in the Triangle”