Here’s to trail angels, the kind who pop up and guide you for a few miles through the suburban jungle, over highways and the twists and turns of neighborhood streets.
We met Jean-Roch as we stood next to a busy road, debating our route. Should we cross now, follow other cyclists around the corner, possibly crossing at the next light or even following a path to almost the St. Lawrence River and going underneath the river bridges?
This was all made more complicated by the fact that we’d changed our route from what we’d planned and not all of us had it on their bike computers. (Guilty.)
When my sister asked him for directions, he took over. We quickly crossed that road and were off, trailing behind him and his e-bike.
15 minutes later we were at Parc des Chutes de la Chaudiere and could hear the roar of an impressive waterfall before we saw it.
Oh, and a swaying narrow pedestrian suspension bridge high above the river, just past the falls. We’d have to walk our bikes across that.
Walking across was pretty much OK, even if the bridge slightly sloped. Stopping on the bridge to take photos, however, was not a good idea. That’s when you really felt every sway, which was every second. Not good when you hate anything but the tamest of amusement park rides.
Breathe in, breathe out.
If this were in the U.S., I bet lawyers would shut down the bridge so fast citing liability concerns. When I later said that to a Canadian, he burst out laughing.
And still Jean-Roch stayed with us, turning back only when we had reached the old Grand Trunk Railroad, now a rail-trail. We’d follow it for the next 40 miles or so to Plessisville. It’s part of Route Verte 1.
Loved the tree canopy along much of the rail-trail. Loved the many halte, or rest areas, that popped up every few miles. Some had restrooms and running water; a couple even had snack bars.
Our ride ended at the home of our Warmshowers host. We caught him a week before he embarks on a month-long canoeing adventure in Canada’s great north with 3 others, taking or catching everything they need. (This is a man who hunts deer and cleans it himself — no deer processing facility on Route 31 for him. And then offers us deer pate and slices of deer heart.) No gun on this trip; he says it would need to be within easy reach and the risk of an accident is too great. So bear spray noise makers will have to do. He figures he’ll be back in time for the start of school in late August.
This is the best of Warmshowers, talking adventures and comparing how our countries work. We learn that immigration — a recent phenomenon in this conservative area — is capped at 10% of the population; otherwise, he says, they won’t integrate. But thanks to new immigrants, this town of 8,000 also has its first Mexican restaurant.
Yes, Canadians pay a lot in taxes but look at the services they get. The town’s pool is free all summer. Each of the four elementary schools has a small ice skating rink for winter PE classes. Let’s not even talk about health care.
Our host is the PE and health teacher for the elementary school virtually around the corner from his house. He works in bike lessons for every grade — these kids learn jumps and wheelies! — and is growing maple saplings in his yard that his students will offer to nearby residents. That’s part of health class — making your environment healthy.
We know that Canadians are angry over President Trump’s idea that Canada should become the 51st state, over his tariffs and threats of more. Our host wonders what will happen to the 200,000 Christmas trees he grows on a huge tract he owns, intended for U.S. consumers.
We also know about the big movement buy Canadian products and to shun things from the U.S. In Quebec City we’d learned that national museums are free this year, part of a campaign to encourage people to vacation in Canada.
Still, it was disconcerting to hear both him and his college-aged son say they have no interest in traveling to the U.S. anymore. It’s too dangerous, they say. And they use a word generally not associated with the U.S.: unstable.
Next up: day 7.
More photos from the day. Lots of fun art:
Exploring by bicycle 
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